Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Where are you located?
A: We are located in Rancho Cucamonga, California (which is approximately 45 minutes east of Los Angeles or 45 minutes north of Disneyland).
Q: Do you rent bunnies or allow them to be taken and used for photoshoots or birthday parties or petting zoos?
A: No, due to the associate risked of exposing our bunnies to an outside (uncontrolled environment) it is not in the bunny's best interest as they can contract viral infections, bacterial infections, fungal infections, parasites, or even worse injured. Since most our baby bunnies are reserved, this is a liability in the event said bunny becomes ill or injured during the event. Not too mention this is also an unnecessary stress to these young babies. Our bunnies are family pets first! And their health and wellbeing are priority!
Q: Can you notify me when you have new litters and send photos?
A: Sure! If you are on the waiting list with deposit we will send out custom birthing announcements and availability updates. Since we get inundated with emails daily we are not able to work off a secondary notification list (what that basically means is we WILL NOT be able to send out availability notifications to anyone other than those already on our waiting list). Click here to information on how to secure your spot for the next available litter!
Q: Do you have bunnies available now?
A: We do have bunnies available year round as we are a show/hobby breeders. We breed for what traits we are looking for as well as what will coincide with the show schedules. We typically work off a waiting list and rarely have bunnies available to go home the same day (trust me though, it's worth the wait getting a quality bred rabbit who conforms to ARBA standard of perfection). On occasion, any bunnies that have not been claimed by our waiting list families can be found here
Q: What's included in the adoption cost?
A: You will receive a care packet that includes the following: documented sales terms, a limited 10 day heath warranty, a 11 page care guide, a bag of pellets, a bag of hay, a bag of bonding treats, a bag of botanical blend (for calming during stress or environment changes), some chew toys, some interactive toys, some treats (usually two different types), nail clippers, grooming brush (if getting a "fuzzy" Holland lop), as well as lifetime support, and welcoming arms if you ever need to find your bunny a new home (we will always take them back).
Q: How large do Holland Lops get?
A: Holland Lops have an adult weight range from 3lbs - 4.5lbs. Holland Lops are known as the dwarf lop, being the smallest of all lop eared rabbits.
Q: Can I come over today and look at your rabbits and meet some of the bunnies, I'd really like to see personality and if it's a good fit?
A: Please refer to our visitation policy, which can be found here for more details. But in short, NO. We have an ongoing rabbit virus outbreak (RHDv2) and because of that, we will only allow visits the day you are to take your bunny home. Think of it this way, your family comes over and looks at a litter of bunnies (handling all of them to get a feel for which bunny better suits your home) and unbeknownst to you, someone has trafficked in RHDv2 on their clothing or shoes, then all the other bunnies have been exposed and if I were to place the bunnies back with their mother and around my other rabbits my entire herd can become infected and potentially die. The safety and wellbeing of my bunnies is priority and I hope you can appreciate the care given to each bunny prior to coming to your new home. And with that, you know you will be getting a healthy new pet from me.
Q: Will my bunny be examined by a veterinarian before I take him/her home?
A: No. Bunnies don't get typical wellness exams like puppies and kittens do. They also don't require mandatory core vaccines like dogs and cats (in fact there are not any vaccines FDA approved in the US yet for bunnies). RHDv2 is a threat to the domestic rabbit currently as outbreaks are making their way to the Pacific South West, unfortunately vaccines for this disease are only approved for emergency use in the states and optional. (Update May 2020: RHDv2 vaccines have been permitted for use in California. There are vets working with a waiting list and vaccines will start to be accessible July 2020, due to the associated costs to inoculate each bunny, it will be your responsibility to have your bunny vaccinated after you take him/her home if you wish to do so).Side note* I was classically trained by a veterinarian for 15 years (I worked in their facility). What that means is, I actually check all the bunnies prior to adoption ensuring they are free of any clinical signs of infectious disease or illness (no malocclusion, no ocular or nasal discharge, no signs of digestive issues, free of any signs of infection, etc...). Buyer's are encouraged to check over their bunny prior to taking physical possession of their pet or get a wellness exam at their family practitioner at their expense.
Q: I heard that Holland Lops and dwarf breeds are prone to overgrown teeth, is this true? And have you seen this issue with your bunnies?
A: All rabbits teeth continue to grow throughout their lives. Dwarf breeds (like Netherland dwarfs and such) can be prone to malocclusion (misaligned teeth) due to their pug face. If the teeth are misaligned and don't wear down properly then that may pose problematic (most common severe form is called "wolf teeth"). Here's kind of an issue with rabbits in general, malocclusion is something they are born with due to conformation. Most knowledgeable breeders check their babies prior to sending them home. On the flip-side something traumatic can happen to your bunny where they break a tooth causing the new tooth to grow in misaligned and in turn it may grow unevenly. Proper hay and chewing items will always help keep their teeth healthy and in their best possible condition. Avoid letting your bunny chew on his enclosure wire (if the sides have wire) as they can cause their jaw to manipulate positions which could lead to uneven wear. Fortunately, I have not seen a case of malocclusion in my bunnies to date.
Q: Will my bunny come altered (spayed/neutered)?
A: No. Since my bunnies go home at the minimum age requirements (being at least 8 weeks of age) we do not advise altering them until they are at least 6 months of age. We highly suggest and advocate it though as it will lessen the risk of certain cancers, help with potty training, and reduce hormonal territorial behavior.
Q: How much is the typical fee to adopt one of your bunnies?
A: The cost can vary based on many factors (i.e. color, size, quality, breed, show potential vs. pet home), please contact us for more details on our pricing structure as the range can vary with an average pricing of $250-$275 for pet homes (Vienna Marked, White Eared gene/markings, or ones with a very uncommon, exotic markings, start at $300 and go up). Please feel free to email us for a more exact quote if you have a certain color in mind.
Q: How long is the typical wait time for one of your bunnies?
A: Well that can depend on the age of the current litter or litter due. In short, the longest waiting time is about 8 weeks but typically my families wait an average of about 4-8 weeks after leaving their deposit if we have a litter due soon or newly born.
Q: Are you bunnies litterbox trained?
A: Our bunnies have been started with a litterbox, but due to the age the bunnies get release to their new owners (typically around 8 weeks of age) it will solely be up to the new owner to continue training them.
Q: Do you deliver if needed?
A: If you are not able to pick up your bunny in person we can put you in touch with a trusted transporter (Arlene Vasquez 951-422-8075) to have your bunny delivered to you and delivery fees will apply (Please let us know in advance if you will need your bunny delivered to ensure our driver has the availability). If you reside outside the state of California we do have trusted recommendations of 3rd party transportation/flight nannies pending their schedule. *Note, you will be responsible for setting up transport with the resources we provide and the costs associated with that. In the event you do use a 3rd party company that is not one that we have referred you to then all warranties are void due to exposure risk of other rabbits during transit. Additionally, we have the right to refuse transport if we do not feel comfortable with the transporter you chose, and in those cases, we reserve the right to cancel the sale and refund any payments received on the rabbit.
Q: Are rabbits good pets for children?
A: Well that depends on your child's age and ability to care for a rabbit. I wouldn't suggest a bunny for a younger child. They are not cuddly pets. They are prey animals. They tend to not like to be held due to their fear of heights and if they don't feel secure in your arms they may kick, scratch, and could get dropped resulting in a broken limb or even their back. If you are willing to have the bunny for a pet for yourself (that at times you can allow your children supervised interaction with) then I would say that would be an acceptable environment for your bunny. Rabbits can make wonderful pets for children (when supervised) and this can encourage them to be more responsible or even visit local rabbit shows or 4H events (win, win in my books!).
Q: Can rabbits be good pets for apartment dwellers?
A: Oh absolutely! Rabbits can be a great pet in you have limited space but crave a furry companion. And they litter box train quite easily too!
Q: What type of bedding is best for rabbits?
A: The traditional rabbit bedding is wood shavings or sawdust, however, studies have shown this to cause liver disease in rabbits. The best bedding to use is a paper pulp bedding such as Carefresh or a wood pellet litter that is kiln dried, both of which are highly absorbent and control odor well.
Q: Can I keep two rabbits together?
A: Yes, as long as both rabbits are de-sexed and are introduced correctly. They are best kept in pairs of neutered male and spayed female. Rabbits are very gregarious and companionship is vital to their emotional well-being.
Q: Should I have one rabbit or two? What are the pros vs cons?
A: Here is the deal with that. Rabbits are very social creatures and often times do best in pairs. They will bond with another bunny and that will contribute to their emotional well-being. With that being said, if you want a bunny who will be more in tune with it's owner and more bonded with their human then you may consider only adopting one as they will be less inclined to engage with their humans if they have another bunny to bond with. Now, if your schedule is up in the air and it's not consistent then I highly suggest you adopt two bunnies (from the same litter) at the same time so they can grow up together as it's way easier to bond siblings than older rabbits. If you work from home or this bunny will be free roam in your environment then one bunny will get the emotional/mental stimulation necessary to keep him/her alone in a one bunny household. (All of this information is of my opinion and the decision to have one vs two bunnies will solely be up to their owner)
Q: What should I feed my rabbit?
A: Rabbits should be fed a hay based diet with small amounts of dry food and limited vegetables. A rabbit should eat approximately its own body volume in hay every day - that's a pile of hay as big as your rabbit - about an eggcup full of dry food (pellets, not mix) and a variety of green, leafy vegetables such as spring greens, broccoli, savoy cabbage etc.
Q: Is it okay to bathe a rabbit?
A: Absolutely not! Rabbits are very clean animals and spend a majority of their day cleaning themselves. The fact is, bathing a rabbit can be extremely stressful and harmful to them which could lead to injury, pneumonia, or death. Please don't bathe your bunny! Rabbits are self-cleaning animals, much like cats. Typically, they are very well groomed, and most rabbits will only need an occasional brushing out to remove loose fur and prevent matting. Some rabbits, typically older or obese rabbits, may not keep their bottom well groomed, and the fur may be come matted with fecal matter. If they stand in a dirty litter box too long, their paws may be urine-stained, and that will need to be washed off. Otherwise, a rabbit should be clean and have no need for a bath.If your rabbit needs a bath, something is wrong. You should find the cause of the problem, or it will consistently reoccur.
Q: Should I take my rabbit to the vet?
A: Rabbits don’t need shots/vaccines like cats and dogs do (updated 6/30/20: due to RHDv2 rabbits vaccines are starting to become more readily available in California, we hope to have our herd vaccine in the near future). I don’t normally take a rabbit to the vet unless they’re showing a true sign of illness or injury that I cannot treat myself. I wouldn’t recommend a pet owner treating any illness or injury on their own if they have no experience. However, rabbits are very clean and generally healthy animals. They do not need routine vet screenings.
Q: Why is my rabbit’s pee orange or reddish color?
A: This is a normal build up of calcium in the urine. It is completely normal and no cause for concern.
Q: Why is my rabbit suddenly aggressive and/or spraying?
A: If your rabbit is going on 6-7 months (9 months for bigger breeds) he/she may be becoming sexually mature and frustrated. They can become very territorial, causing them to spray. Males and females can do this. Not all rabbits do it, in my experience genetics have some of the fault here with their attitude. Females may become agitated and bite or nip. Males may appear to be overly friendly and demand attention, when suddenly they spray at you. To fix this you may consider spaying or neutering the rabbit.
Q: My rabbit eats it’s droppings sometimes. Is this normal?
A: Yes, this is called coprophagy (the eating of night droppings.) This is perfectly normal. These night droppings help restore the good bacteria and some of the essential nutrients in the rabbit’s system. Most of the time, the rabbit will eat this type of dropping directly from the rectum. It is normal and important to the rabbit’s proper nutrient balance.
Q: Should I buy from a show breeder or from someone I found online who has mixed breed rabbits? What the difference? Does it matter?
A: I would recommend from a show breeder for many reasons. Backyard breeders (as they're called) may not be able to tell you the age or sex of the rabbit. They won’t know the breed, or real color. They won’t be able to offer you any help if the rabbit is sick or if you have any questions down the road. These bunny-mills often sell rabbits for an attractive price and they often house all ages of rabbits together. This allows for unchecked mating. Does are frequently bought by consumers only to find one morning that their pet has died from birthing babies too early, or she has had dead babies on the cage wire. A show breeder can help you avoid all of this. Buying pets from show breeders means you have an animal that was produced for a specific reason and you have the breeder's support.
A: We are located in Rancho Cucamonga, California (which is approximately 45 minutes east of Los Angeles or 45 minutes north of Disneyland).
Q: Do you rent bunnies or allow them to be taken and used for photoshoots or birthday parties or petting zoos?
A: No, due to the associate risked of exposing our bunnies to an outside (uncontrolled environment) it is not in the bunny's best interest as they can contract viral infections, bacterial infections, fungal infections, parasites, or even worse injured. Since most our baby bunnies are reserved, this is a liability in the event said bunny becomes ill or injured during the event. Not too mention this is also an unnecessary stress to these young babies. Our bunnies are family pets first! And their health and wellbeing are priority!
Q: Can you notify me when you have new litters and send photos?
A: Sure! If you are on the waiting list with deposit we will send out custom birthing announcements and availability updates. Since we get inundated with emails daily we are not able to work off a secondary notification list (what that basically means is we WILL NOT be able to send out availability notifications to anyone other than those already on our waiting list). Click here to information on how to secure your spot for the next available litter!
Q: Do you have bunnies available now?
A: We do have bunnies available year round as we are a show/hobby breeders. We breed for what traits we are looking for as well as what will coincide with the show schedules. We typically work off a waiting list and rarely have bunnies available to go home the same day (trust me though, it's worth the wait getting a quality bred rabbit who conforms to ARBA standard of perfection). On occasion, any bunnies that have not been claimed by our waiting list families can be found here
Q: What's included in the adoption cost?
A: You will receive a care packet that includes the following: documented sales terms, a limited 10 day heath warranty, a 11 page care guide, a bag of pellets, a bag of hay, a bag of bonding treats, a bag of botanical blend (for calming during stress or environment changes), some chew toys, some interactive toys, some treats (usually two different types), nail clippers, grooming brush (if getting a "fuzzy" Holland lop), as well as lifetime support, and welcoming arms if you ever need to find your bunny a new home (we will always take them back).
Q: How large do Holland Lops get?
A: Holland Lops have an adult weight range from 3lbs - 4.5lbs. Holland Lops are known as the dwarf lop, being the smallest of all lop eared rabbits.
Q: Can I come over today and look at your rabbits and meet some of the bunnies, I'd really like to see personality and if it's a good fit?
A: Please refer to our visitation policy, which can be found here for more details. But in short, NO. We have an ongoing rabbit virus outbreak (RHDv2) and because of that, we will only allow visits the day you are to take your bunny home. Think of it this way, your family comes over and looks at a litter of bunnies (handling all of them to get a feel for which bunny better suits your home) and unbeknownst to you, someone has trafficked in RHDv2 on their clothing or shoes, then all the other bunnies have been exposed and if I were to place the bunnies back with their mother and around my other rabbits my entire herd can become infected and potentially die. The safety and wellbeing of my bunnies is priority and I hope you can appreciate the care given to each bunny prior to coming to your new home. And with that, you know you will be getting a healthy new pet from me.
Q: Will my bunny be examined by a veterinarian before I take him/her home?
A: No. Bunnies don't get typical wellness exams like puppies and kittens do. They also don't require mandatory core vaccines like dogs and cats (in fact there are not any vaccines FDA approved in the US yet for bunnies). RHDv2 is a threat to the domestic rabbit currently as outbreaks are making their way to the Pacific South West, unfortunately vaccines for this disease are only approved for emergency use in the states and optional. (Update May 2020: RHDv2 vaccines have been permitted for use in California. There are vets working with a waiting list and vaccines will start to be accessible July 2020, due to the associated costs to inoculate each bunny, it will be your responsibility to have your bunny vaccinated after you take him/her home if you wish to do so).Side note* I was classically trained by a veterinarian for 15 years (I worked in their facility). What that means is, I actually check all the bunnies prior to adoption ensuring they are free of any clinical signs of infectious disease or illness (no malocclusion, no ocular or nasal discharge, no signs of digestive issues, free of any signs of infection, etc...). Buyer's are encouraged to check over their bunny prior to taking physical possession of their pet or get a wellness exam at their family practitioner at their expense.
Q: I heard that Holland Lops and dwarf breeds are prone to overgrown teeth, is this true? And have you seen this issue with your bunnies?
A: All rabbits teeth continue to grow throughout their lives. Dwarf breeds (like Netherland dwarfs and such) can be prone to malocclusion (misaligned teeth) due to their pug face. If the teeth are misaligned and don't wear down properly then that may pose problematic (most common severe form is called "wolf teeth"). Here's kind of an issue with rabbits in general, malocclusion is something they are born with due to conformation. Most knowledgeable breeders check their babies prior to sending them home. On the flip-side something traumatic can happen to your bunny where they break a tooth causing the new tooth to grow in misaligned and in turn it may grow unevenly. Proper hay and chewing items will always help keep their teeth healthy and in their best possible condition. Avoid letting your bunny chew on his enclosure wire (if the sides have wire) as they can cause their jaw to manipulate positions which could lead to uneven wear. Fortunately, I have not seen a case of malocclusion in my bunnies to date.
Q: Will my bunny come altered (spayed/neutered)?
A: No. Since my bunnies go home at the minimum age requirements (being at least 8 weeks of age) we do not advise altering them until they are at least 6 months of age. We highly suggest and advocate it though as it will lessen the risk of certain cancers, help with potty training, and reduce hormonal territorial behavior.
Q: How much is the typical fee to adopt one of your bunnies?
A: The cost can vary based on many factors (i.e. color, size, quality, breed, show potential vs. pet home), please contact us for more details on our pricing structure as the range can vary with an average pricing of $250-$275 for pet homes (Vienna Marked, White Eared gene/markings, or ones with a very uncommon, exotic markings, start at $300 and go up). Please feel free to email us for a more exact quote if you have a certain color in mind.
Q: How long is the typical wait time for one of your bunnies?
A: Well that can depend on the age of the current litter or litter due. In short, the longest waiting time is about 8 weeks but typically my families wait an average of about 4-8 weeks after leaving their deposit if we have a litter due soon or newly born.
Q: Are you bunnies litterbox trained?
A: Our bunnies have been started with a litterbox, but due to the age the bunnies get release to their new owners (typically around 8 weeks of age) it will solely be up to the new owner to continue training them.
Q: Do you deliver if needed?
A: If you are not able to pick up your bunny in person we can put you in touch with a trusted transporter (Arlene Vasquez 951-422-8075) to have your bunny delivered to you and delivery fees will apply (Please let us know in advance if you will need your bunny delivered to ensure our driver has the availability). If you reside outside the state of California we do have trusted recommendations of 3rd party transportation/flight nannies pending their schedule. *Note, you will be responsible for setting up transport with the resources we provide and the costs associated with that. In the event you do use a 3rd party company that is not one that we have referred you to then all warranties are void due to exposure risk of other rabbits during transit. Additionally, we have the right to refuse transport if we do not feel comfortable with the transporter you chose, and in those cases, we reserve the right to cancel the sale and refund any payments received on the rabbit.
Q: Are rabbits good pets for children?
A: Well that depends on your child's age and ability to care for a rabbit. I wouldn't suggest a bunny for a younger child. They are not cuddly pets. They are prey animals. They tend to not like to be held due to their fear of heights and if they don't feel secure in your arms they may kick, scratch, and could get dropped resulting in a broken limb or even their back. If you are willing to have the bunny for a pet for yourself (that at times you can allow your children supervised interaction with) then I would say that would be an acceptable environment for your bunny. Rabbits can make wonderful pets for children (when supervised) and this can encourage them to be more responsible or even visit local rabbit shows or 4H events (win, win in my books!).
Q: Can rabbits be good pets for apartment dwellers?
A: Oh absolutely! Rabbits can be a great pet in you have limited space but crave a furry companion. And they litter box train quite easily too!
Q: What type of bedding is best for rabbits?
A: The traditional rabbit bedding is wood shavings or sawdust, however, studies have shown this to cause liver disease in rabbits. The best bedding to use is a paper pulp bedding such as Carefresh or a wood pellet litter that is kiln dried, both of which are highly absorbent and control odor well.
Q: Can I keep two rabbits together?
A: Yes, as long as both rabbits are de-sexed and are introduced correctly. They are best kept in pairs of neutered male and spayed female. Rabbits are very gregarious and companionship is vital to their emotional well-being.
Q: Should I have one rabbit or two? What are the pros vs cons?
A: Here is the deal with that. Rabbits are very social creatures and often times do best in pairs. They will bond with another bunny and that will contribute to their emotional well-being. With that being said, if you want a bunny who will be more in tune with it's owner and more bonded with their human then you may consider only adopting one as they will be less inclined to engage with their humans if they have another bunny to bond with. Now, if your schedule is up in the air and it's not consistent then I highly suggest you adopt two bunnies (from the same litter) at the same time so they can grow up together as it's way easier to bond siblings than older rabbits. If you work from home or this bunny will be free roam in your environment then one bunny will get the emotional/mental stimulation necessary to keep him/her alone in a one bunny household. (All of this information is of my opinion and the decision to have one vs two bunnies will solely be up to their owner)
Q: What should I feed my rabbit?
A: Rabbits should be fed a hay based diet with small amounts of dry food and limited vegetables. A rabbit should eat approximately its own body volume in hay every day - that's a pile of hay as big as your rabbit - about an eggcup full of dry food (pellets, not mix) and a variety of green, leafy vegetables such as spring greens, broccoli, savoy cabbage etc.
Q: Is it okay to bathe a rabbit?
A: Absolutely not! Rabbits are very clean animals and spend a majority of their day cleaning themselves. The fact is, bathing a rabbit can be extremely stressful and harmful to them which could lead to injury, pneumonia, or death. Please don't bathe your bunny! Rabbits are self-cleaning animals, much like cats. Typically, they are very well groomed, and most rabbits will only need an occasional brushing out to remove loose fur and prevent matting. Some rabbits, typically older or obese rabbits, may not keep their bottom well groomed, and the fur may be come matted with fecal matter. If they stand in a dirty litter box too long, their paws may be urine-stained, and that will need to be washed off. Otherwise, a rabbit should be clean and have no need for a bath.If your rabbit needs a bath, something is wrong. You should find the cause of the problem, or it will consistently reoccur.
Q: Should I take my rabbit to the vet?
A: Rabbits don’t need shots/vaccines like cats and dogs do (updated 6/30/20: due to RHDv2 rabbits vaccines are starting to become more readily available in California, we hope to have our herd vaccine in the near future). I don’t normally take a rabbit to the vet unless they’re showing a true sign of illness or injury that I cannot treat myself. I wouldn’t recommend a pet owner treating any illness or injury on their own if they have no experience. However, rabbits are very clean and generally healthy animals. They do not need routine vet screenings.
Q: Why is my rabbit’s pee orange or reddish color?
A: This is a normal build up of calcium in the urine. It is completely normal and no cause for concern.
Q: Why is my rabbit suddenly aggressive and/or spraying?
A: If your rabbit is going on 6-7 months (9 months for bigger breeds) he/she may be becoming sexually mature and frustrated. They can become very territorial, causing them to spray. Males and females can do this. Not all rabbits do it, in my experience genetics have some of the fault here with their attitude. Females may become agitated and bite or nip. Males may appear to be overly friendly and demand attention, when suddenly they spray at you. To fix this you may consider spaying or neutering the rabbit.
Q: My rabbit eats it’s droppings sometimes. Is this normal?
A: Yes, this is called coprophagy (the eating of night droppings.) This is perfectly normal. These night droppings help restore the good bacteria and some of the essential nutrients in the rabbit’s system. Most of the time, the rabbit will eat this type of dropping directly from the rectum. It is normal and important to the rabbit’s proper nutrient balance.
Q: Should I buy from a show breeder or from someone I found online who has mixed breed rabbits? What the difference? Does it matter?
A: I would recommend from a show breeder for many reasons. Backyard breeders (as they're called) may not be able to tell you the age or sex of the rabbit. They won’t know the breed, or real color. They won’t be able to offer you any help if the rabbit is sick or if you have any questions down the road. These bunny-mills often sell rabbits for an attractive price and they often house all ages of rabbits together. This allows for unchecked mating. Does are frequently bought by consumers only to find one morning that their pet has died from birthing babies too early, or she has had dead babies on the cage wire. A show breeder can help you avoid all of this. Buying pets from show breeders means you have an animal that was produced for a specific reason and you have the breeder's support.